What is the climate like in Madeira?
The Madeiran archipelago is located geographically on the African plate next to the Moroccan coast in the Atlantic Ocean and is formed by 7 islands, of which only two are inhabited:
The island of Madeira
Porto Santo
The Desertas islands (Deserta Grande, Ilhéu Chão and Bugio)
The Selvagens islands (Selvagem Grande and Selvagem Pequena)
Image 1: The archipelago without the Selvagens islands (situated further south towards the Canary Islands)
The island of Madeira has a very rugged relief. The landscape is dominated by mountains and high and abrupt cliffs as well as peaks that can reach 1862 m. of altitude being the Pico Ruivo the third highest point in the country. About 35 % of the island is above 1000 meters and about 90 % above 500 meters. The central part of the island is traversed by a mountain range arranged from east to west dividing the island into two sides: one on the south and one on the north. The northern face has a steeper slope than the south and is dominated by imposing cliffs. In contrast, Porto Santo is characterized by a low and flat relief with the Pico do Facho being the highest point of the island with only 517 m. of altitude. The Desertas islands have their highest point at 417 m. and the Selvagens islands at 163 m.
Image 2: Aerial view of the island, from sea level to the highest peaks at over 1800 m altitude.
Image 3: Aerial view of Porto Santo
Image 4: View of the Desertas islands
Image 5: Selvagem Grande island
Image 6: Selvagem Pequena
These volcanic islands are located in the subtropical region between 30° and 33° north latitude and generally have a mild climate both in winter and summer except in the higher areas where lower temperatures are observed. The Gulf Stream and the Canary current have an influence on the climate of the Madeiran islands. Furthermore, there is a reduced temperature range throughout the year due to the moderating effect of the sea.
The relief plays an important role on the climate and, together with the geographical position and the altitude, several microclimates that are characterized by differences in humidity, temperature and precipitation. There are also variations between the north and south coasts of Madeira Island, as well as between the other islands.
In fact, on Madeira the relief is quite irregular, predominantly rocky mountains interspersed with deep valleys with steep slopes. A central mountain range with altitudes above 1200 m. and an east-west orientation determine a sunny southern slope, more protected from the trade winds coming from the north and northeast, and a shady northern slope, cooler and wetter due to a greater exposure to these moist winds. A joint action between the trade winds and the orography of the island results in the formation of fogs and mist, more frequent on the northern coast and largely responsible for the high levels of humidity and precipitation observed there.[1]
This phenomenon is known as the "foehn" effect and occurs when a deep layer of wind is forced up a mountain. As the air rises up the slope, it expands due to the decrease in atmospheric pressure with altitude and cools, condensing and occasionally generating precipitation. As the air continues to flow, now stripped of its moisture, it flows down the slope on the other side increasing its atmospheric pressure and warming, resulting in a hot, dry wind.[2]
Therefore, Madeira is the greenest and most humid island of the archipelago. Unlike the main island, the others watch the clouds pass over them without almost ever receiving precipitation due to their relatively flat orographies.
Image 7: Foehn effect on the Canary Islands, Madeira goes through the same process.
Image 8: Fog and cloud formation on the northern coast
Image 9: Foehn effect in Madeira
Image 10: Cloud formation on the northern coast
Image 11: Madeira's northern coast with its green landscapes
Image 12: Madeira's southern coast, drier and sunnier
It is thanks to this effect that the northern coast of the island is much wetter and receives more precipitation than the drier and sunnier southern coast. These conditions sustain the Laurissilva, the island's primeval humid subtropical forest, which receives the water and moisture necessary for its development from the fogs and the high humidity level.
Images 13 and 14: Indigenous subtropical rainforest irrigated by the fogs
The only time the humidity level drops is when there is what the Madeirans commonly call "tempo de leste". This is a meteorological situation of reduced visibility and increased air pollution due to the movement of hot, dusty and sandy air masses from the Sahara desert that affects the archipelago, more frequently in the summer months but not exclusively.[3] At those times, temperatures reach or exceed 30 degrees and the humidity level decreases considerably. We also observe more fires on these occasions, facilitated by the hot and dry weather.
Image 15: Hot air mass and dust from the Sahara reaching the Canary Islands and Madeira.
On the island of Madeira, the annual precipitation varies according to the north-south side and altitude, with values of up to 400 mm in the southeast, more than 2000 mm on the northern slopes, and up to more than 3000 mm at the highest points.
Image 16: Annual precipitation for the 1961-90 period
Image 17: Foggy and humid landscape in Fanal at about 1400 m.
Image 18: Rainfall in the rainforest
Images 19 and 20: Semi-arid landscape in Ponta de São Lourenço
The other islands have very low precipitation values. Porto Santo only reaches about 350 mm. per year, which makes its climate a hot semi-arid climate (BSh according to the Köppen Geiger classification). The island has always known large drought periods throughout the history and its inhabitants always struggled to survive due to the water scarcity. To prevent the erosion and the desertification of the soils, the inhabitants started to reafforest the mountains with tree species adapted to the dry and oceanic climate of the island. Today, Porto Santo possesses about 400 hectares of green area.
Images 21: Arid landscape deprived of vegetation a century ago
Images 22, 23, and 24: Semi-arid landscapes of Porto Santo
Image 25: Reafforested area with Pinus halepensis and Cupressus macrocarpa
Image 26: Date palms (Phoenix canariensis and Phoenix dactylifera) growing at lower altitudes
The Selvagens islands have a hot arid climate (BWh) with less than 200 mm. of precipitation per year. As for the Desertas islands, there is no data (no meteorological station), however, we can suspect a climate similar to Porto Santo or the Selvagens given its orography and desert appearance.
Images 27, 28 and 29: Arid landscapes in the Vale do Castanheiro on the Deserta Grande
Images 30 and 31: Arid landscape of Selvagem Grande where it almost never rains.
Let us now focus on temperatures. Like precipitation, these also vary according to altitude, and in the case of Madeira, they vary according to the north-south facing slopes.
In the coastal areas at low elevations, the average annual temperatures range between 18 and 20 degrees Celsius, and can reach values above 20 on the southern coast of the main island. The northern coast has slightly cooler temperatures than the south because of the greater cloudiness and the influence of the northeastern winds.
The climate of Madeira has been qualified as hot summer Mediterranean (Csa according to Köppen's climate classification) at lower altitudes, passing to a mild summer Mediterranean climate (Csb) at higher levels. Nevertheless, in recent years, the temperature has been increasing and, nowadays, well sheltered regions on the southern coast of Madeira Island have a transitional climate between the hot and dry summer Mediterranean climate (Csa) and the tropical climate with dry season (As). In fact, these coastal regions are one degree -or less- away from being considered tropical. For instance, according to the Köppen-Geiger classification, the average temperature of the coldest month of the year has to be 18 degrees. The average temperatures in January and February are about 1°C lower in Funchal (observatory station) while in other areas of Funchal or the southern coast such as Ponta do Sol, and especially the more sheltered areas like Paul do Mar and Madalena do Mar, those same temperatures are very close to 18 degrees or even reach that value[4]. Unfortunately, there are no stations in these regions, being the ones in Funchal (Lido and Observatório) and Lugar de Baixo the only stations that IPMA has, for that reason we still don't have the data to prove this hypothesis. However in these regions subtropical and tropical plants are grown and trees such as banana, papaya or mango can be found up to 300-400 m. of altitude on the southern coast. Madeira is also the northernmost place in the world where coconut trees, symbols of the tropical world, can grow.
Image 32: 2016 temperatures of Ponta do Sol
Images 33: Banana plantations in Ponta do Sol
Image 34: Coconut tree with coconuts in Paúl do Mar
Image 35: Coconut trees in Funchal's marina
Image 36: Sugar cane plantation near Funchal
Image 37 and 38: Subtropical and tropical vegetation at lower elevations
On the coast, two distinct seasons can be differentiated, although without great thermal variations between both: the first from October to April with regular precipitation and maximum average temperatures that oscillate between 25 °C in October and 20 °C in January and February (especially on the southern coast); the second from May to September with low levels of precipitation and maximum average temperatures that oscillate between 22 °C in May and 26 °C in August and September[5]. The sea water temperature ranges from 26 in summer to 17 in winter.
As one goes up in altitude or as one enters the island, the temperatures go down. The average annual values in the higher altitude areas of Madeira can vary between 6 and 12 degrees Celsius. In winter, these values oscillate between 4°C and 8°C with days with negative temperatures and even snow on the summits of the island of Madeira.[6] As a result of the colder climate, we can see temperate and alpine trees growing along with the natural vegetation at higher altitudes.
Image 39: Average annual temperature in Madeira Island for the 1961-1990period . Today, we can easily add between 1 and 2 degrees to these averages to get an idea of the island's current climate.
Images 40 and 41: Snow on the highest peaks
Images 42: Indigenous vegetation
Images 43 and 44: Alpine species
Between the coast at the lower parts and the areas of higher altitude, we find a transition area of Mediterranean climate (Csb) with average annual temperatures that can vary between 14 and 17 degrees C. In these areas, temperatures are mild and get colder as we go higher in altitude. Fruits from temperate and Mediterranean regions such as chestnuts, grapes or apples are grown along eucalyptus, acacias and Mediterranean pine forests.
Images 45: Vineyards, chestnut trees and eucalyptus forests
Images 46: Exotic forests of Pinus pinaster and Eucalyptus globulus
Images 47: Vineyards in the northern side of the island
It is important to mention the temperature difference between the seaside and the higher elevations because, being a small island, we can go from sea level to 1000 m. of height in only 30 minutes. In other words, we can feel a drop or a rise in temperature in such a short time depending on our location. This is why many tourists and even the locals themselves say that you can experience "the four seasons in one day". The weather can also be different from one end of the island to the other, it may be raining on the northern coast while the sun is shining on the south. During the coldest months it is possible to have more than 20 degrees of maximum temperature on the littoral and only 5 degrees (or even less) on the highest peeks of the island. In winter, one can spend the afternoon by the pool or on the beach and then go up to Pico do Areeiro to see snow or enjoy the sunset in the cold.
Image 48: Maximum and minimum temperatures on February 2, 2019 in Madeira, the values range from -0.4 in Pico do Areeiro to 23.8 in Funchal (Lido). We can also see that temperatures go down as we go up in altitude.
To summarize what was written above, I propose you a short description of the climatic diversity that we can find in the archipelago from the Köppen-Geiger classification:[7]
Mediterranean climate of cold and dry summer Csc (dark green)
With less than 4 months with an average temperature ≥10 °C with a cool summer dry season and precipitation in winter.
It is observed in the small high-altitude areas of Pico Ruivo and Pico do Areeiro.[8]
Mild, dry summer Mediterranean climate Csb (light green)
All months with average temperatures below 22 °C, 4 months ≥10 °C, with a dry season in summer and precipitation in winter.
In the highest parts of Madeira Island and the highest peeks of Porto Santo.
Hot and dry summer Mediterranean climate Csa (yellow)
At least one month with average temperature ≥22 °C, 4 months ≥10 °C, with dry season in summer and precipitation in winter.
On the Madeiran coast at low altitude, both north and south. It also exists on the highest points of Porto Santo.
Tropical savanna As (?) (blue)
Average monthly temperature ≥18, with dry season (from April/May to September).
Currently in reduced and sheltered places on the southern coast of Madeira at sea level (Lido in Funchal, Ponta do Sol, Madalena do Mar, Lugar de Baixo, Paul do Mar, Fajã dos Padres). These places on the southern coast have more than 17 degrees monthly average in the coldest months and can be considered as transition zones.
Semi-arid BSh climate (orange)
Average annual temperature ≥18 °C, with total annual precipitation between 400 and 200 mm.
In Porto Santo and the Desertas islands, perhaps in some points of Madeira with lower precipitation such as Ponta de São Lourenço.
Arid climate BWh (dark orange)
Average annual temperature ≥18 °C, with total annual precipitation below 200 mm.
On the Selvagens islands and perhaps in some points of the Desertas islands.
Image 49: Climate classification proposal
Sources:
Illustrations: Google search and https://www.flickr.com/explore
I also used the data available on the IPMA (Portuguese Institute of Sea and Atmosphere) website and the Köppen-Geiger climate classification.
Footnotes
[8] http://www.aemet.es/documentos/es/conocermas/recursos_en_linea/publicaciones_y_estudios/publicaciones/2Atlas_climatologico/Atlas_Clima_Macaronesia___Baja.pdf
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